The flash can obstruct the shooter’s view and even cause you to be seen when trying to remain covert.įlash hiders don’t eliminate flash, but they do a lot to mitigate the shooter’s amount of flash. Rifles flash because of unburned gunpowder, and while the flash may not be a big deal during the day, it’s important to reduce it at night. Carbine length weapons are known to have much more flash than rifle length. The more scientific answer: flash hiders cool or disperse the burning gases that exit the muzzle. In short, flash hiders are meant to reduce the flash from the muzzle break. Speaking of function let’s talk about what a flash hider actually does. This is probably mostly cosmetic and doesn’t change the function much. Many companies, like Daniel Defense, are putting their own spin on the A2 design and making different cuts to make the flash hider look different.
Many guns like the Smith & Wesson M&P15 and Ruger AR556 come with the A2 flash hider. The A2 is the “standard flash hider” that comes on most rifles from the factory. The A2 flash hider is probably one of the most well-known muzzle devices for an AR-15 or possibly a well-known muzzle device on guns, period. If you go with a griffin, you'll want to remove the muzzle device anyways to mount the overtravel stop along with the shims.4 So which muzzle device should I use? Flash Hiders I'm running a BCM A2 and it works great with my m4SD2 can. If you go this route, some A2 FHs by various manufactures are not all to proper spec and may not fit cans like the Griffin. This will let you mount suppressors designed for A2s and this is exactly what I've done on my 14.5". Yes, it gives less threading that the FH will secure to, but its not a problem if it is pinned in place. This spacer goes behind the FH to push it further out and will get you 16" with a standard A2. And if you're going to go through the trouble of removing it, I'd recommend using a normal A2 along with an ADCO spacer. Honestly, I'd suggest removing it and using shims. Although if you can line up a rod from chamber to the tip of the can with no problem, because its pinned on, it MIGHT be ok. Yes you should have shims, not a crush washer. I'm pretty sure the extended ones wont work on my Griffin M4SD2. The extended flash hider might cause trouble with cans that are designed to mount on A2's. So in a nutshell OP, this may work on your extended MD on the 1st ring. The suppressor collar engages on the 1st ring, not the 2nd ring like a normal A1/A2 MD. I've had it in this configuration for over a year.Īlso, along the way I've used the GMT-Halo mounted to 2A Armament T3 compensators without issue.
Rocksett & torque the MD right to the barrel. lol!) using an AR Stoner A1 birdcage that's using NO SHIMS for timing. I have it dedicated to an 8" 5.56 host (I know, heresy. Truth be told I've used this can on multiple hosts (before I dedicated it to one) and never had any issues. Is already mounted with a peel washer, there is no need to remount."īasically NEVER use a crush wash. Suppressor for proper clocking of the flash hider (compensator). For this reason, a shim washer set is included with the Lock washers andĬrush washers cannot provide parallel sides and will always result in Not have perfectly parallel sides will tilt the compensator. "For there to be proper alignment, it is essential that the compensatorīacks against a surface that is 90° to the bore axis. I own the GMT-Halo, actually it was my 1st suppressor purchase year ago.
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